May 16, 2026 · Happy Isles to the cables and back, with Drake. The long way up the back of the most recognizable rock in Yosemite.
We drove over on Friday night after work, ate dinner at the Texas Roadhouse in Fresno, and slept at the Goat Meadow Trailhead outside Fish Camp. Woke up at 3 a.m., drove the last hour into the park without any traffic, and parked at Happy Isles.
We were walking by 4:40, still in the dark, though there was not much dark left. Even by headlamp you could tell the place was going to be something. This was my first time in Yosemite. The valley walls go straight up on both sides of you, the Mist Trail runs right alongside the water, and the waterfalls are genuinely powerful. I'd recommend bringing a poncho because you are bound to get drenched. Little Yosemite Valley in the early light was gorgeous, and the views only got better from there.
The permit is the hardest part, and it happens months before you ever tie your shoes. The Half Dome lottery is very difficult to get. If you want to get around this you can do it outside of the season when the cables are down. The cables are usually up from Memorial Day Weekend to the second Monday of October. Be sure to double check social media before you go.
Sub-dome was harder than you'd expect but still not too bad. It does not last very long, but it is very steep.
Honestly, the cables were not that big of a deal to me. They were up when we went. I wore cheap gardening gloves off Amazon and they did the job. I would not do it without gloves but I probably would never wear a harness. There was quite a bit of traffic on the line, but it moves and it is manageable. The earlier you go, the less traffic you will encounter. Without traffic, I could probably make it all the way up the cables in less than ten minutes.
I did not use a harness and I did not clip in with a via ferrata setup. I went up on my hands. That is not what I would advise anyone else to do, but I felt good doing it. Going up was fun and going down was even better. Looking at the valley while holding onto the cables 45° of granite made me feel truly alive. It has to be the most beautiful sight I have ever witnessed. I can't imagine heaven is much more stunning than that. What I will say is that it is steeper than I imagined, steeper than any photo can tell you. Under fifteen minutes each direction, and it would have been quicker without the traffic. If you are afraid of heights, I imagine this would be really, really difficult.
The summit was awesome. I could have stayed up there forever. I walked out on the diving board for a picture, which is the shot everybody wants and is worth the few seconds of nerve.
The JMT was closed for repair, so we came down the same way we went up, back down the Mist Trail. Coming down was much easier and much quicker. The one warning I would give is the crowds. By the time you drop back into Little Yosemite Valley and hit the Mist Trail, it is worse than Disneyland, and it is honestly a negative part of the day. The fix is to start early, get your sunrise, and get down fast.
I want to go back and do the cables when they are down.
